It's Almost May

It’s Almost May!

County extension is always a busy place and spring time is twice as fun!  This time of year, 4-H gets hopping as schools prepare for summer break then camp, homemakers show off their finished winter projects and agriculture is always on fire in Kentucky. For the horticulture department, spring brings everyone out to the garden. Add some Kentucky Derby and the end of April can get downright overwhelming!

Gardening is just the beginning.  We have processed and sent over 130 soil test samples to the UK soils lab this past week alone! Didn’t know we could do that?  Well, the University of Kentucky will test your soil, get results back in about 2 weeks, and make recommendations all for 7 bucks.  It is the best deal in horticulture!  

 Follow these basic steps:

*Take multiple examples of the area to be tested, 4 to 8 inches down.

*Mix these together to equal 2 cups of soil for each area or crop.

*Allow to dry thoroughly.

* Put in clean baggy/container and bring to the Extension Office at 810 Barret Ave. 

* Bring cash or check, its $7 for each area to be tested. 

The test results are mailed to you (we get a copy too) with your soil’s pH and readings of major and minor nutrients along with information on how and what to change for the plants to be grown there.

   

For more details on taking a soil sample:

http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr16/agr16.htm

Worried about lead or heavy metals in your soil? We can help with that too. The University of Massachusetts does these tests and requires at least 2 cups of dry soil and it can be sent to them through our office.  The test includes the soil pH and nutrient levels with results specifically addressing any contamination, in approximately 3 weeks.  The cost of the testing is $12.00, another sweet deal!

Of course we still answer horticulture questions, Identify insects and plants and provide information from two of the best Land-grant colleges in the nation! 

I guess it isn’t much of a surprise that we are so busy after all……

Turf - It's All About Timing

Turf – It’s ALL About Timing!

Time for this and time for that….We have heard it before, but for establishing a quality lawn, timing IS everything. Whether it is seeding, weed control or fertilizing, success is dependent on the proper time each task is done. So what should we do now (for spring)?   

Mid-April is a prime time to control broadleaf weeds like dandelions and chickweed. To effectively control these intruders, the plants must be actively growing.  The herbicide has to be absorbed into leaf tissue to move through the plant.  To avoid damaging grass or other plants apply broad leaf herbicides before outdoor temperatures are 80 to 85 degrees.

Pre-emergent control for crabgrass should have already been applied to lawns by this time of year. The right timing for that is the 1st of April. To be effective a pre-emergent herbicide literally has to be present before the emergence of the young crabgrass from seed. (Crabgrass is an annual weed, living out its life and going to seed in one growing season.) Granular products are generally more effective and provide longer control than a liquid.  

A common belief is that our cool season lawns need to be fertilized now…NOT SO!  Spring fertilization feeds weeds that escape control, reduces drought tolerance, and sets the stage for disease and increases the need to mow. Root systems stop growing as the plant concentrates its energy developing leafy tissue. Then the plants cannot supply themselves with water and minerals. Turf is then susceptible to drought and disease. So do your lawn a favor and leave the fertilizer in the shed till fall.

Then some folks make the mistake of trying to establish their lawn at the wrong time. Only certain periods each year have favorable temperature, moisture, and minimum competition from weeds. 

The best time to seed Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, or perennial ryegrass is from mid-August to late September. The second best time is from mid-February to mid-March and not later than mid-April. Due to competition from weeds and moisture stress, lawns seeded late spring to midsummer are seldom successful. 

Sod of Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue can be installed almost anytime. However, during extremely hot and dry summers, it is best to delay sodding until the weather improves. 

Bermuda grass and zoysia grass should be established during May or June, after the soil is warm. 

A quality lawn and landscape not only looks great, it increases the value of your property. And the correct timing can save you money, worry and precious time, which is the point, after all.

Turf care Calendar:

http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr55/agr55.pdf

Weed Control Recommendations:

http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr78/agr78.pdf

turf - Wars!

 

WARS!

We seem to live in a polarized world. Bears vs. Bulls, red vs. blue and then there are cool season- grass lovers vs. warm season grass lovers. The turf wars are on!  Lawn warriors have passionate feelings about their favorite type of lawn and are serious about its care.   Both types of turf grow here in Kentucky but ours summers are usually a little too hot for cool season grasses and the winters are too cold for warm season grasses to flourish so which “side” is best?  

Cool season grasses such as tall (or fine) fescue, perennial ryegrass and KY bluegrass are typically grown in Jefferson County. These grasses are actively growing during the fall thru spring in cool temperatures.  

Warm season grasses such as zoysia and Bermuda are sometimes grown in the Louisville area. Yes, some folks grow it on purpose! These grasses are heat and sun lovers greening up only in warm weather.  Highly maintained golf greens can be Bermuda as well as KY bluegrass.

Here are a few basic considerations:

* Sun. There is no way around it for turf- you’ve got to have it. Lawns that do not get direct sun or are semi shaded may actually be better suited for ground cover or shade gardening instead of grass. Tall and fine fescues are the best suited for sun to medium shade.

* Water. Cool season grasses need supplemental water in dry conditions. Extra water does not however, provide relief from extreme heat. Watering too often can lead to disease problems and shallow, stressed root systems. Water less often, but deeper to encourage root growth.

* Drought. Warm season grasses take both heat and drought conditions. 

* Traffic.  If tolerance to foot traffic is a concern for either 2 or 4 legged critters, then Ryegrass (cool season), Bermuda or zoysia grass would be excellent choices. Tall fescue can tolerate some traffic. Many sports fields use ryegrass for this purpose.

*Germination. Ryegrass germinates in 5 to 7 days.  Tall fescue is right behind, germinating in 7 to 10 days and KY bluegrass can take up to 21 days or so to germinate. Bermuda and zoysia are planted as sprigs (like cuttings) or vegetative plugs that must grow together for good coverage.

There are other considerations of course. Color, availability, grass texture, weeds, mowing, budget and disease and insect tolerance. 

So when it comes down to it, it really doesn’t matter which side you are on. Most recurring lawn problems can be avoided by selecting the best grass species for the conditions you are going to plant it in.  (The only thing that is more important is timing and as we all know timing is everything! More on that later….. )

Detailed information on the selection and comparison of grasses can be found here:

http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr52/agr52.pdf

Lawn establishment:

http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/agr/agr50/AGR50.pdf

Low Maintenance Turf Care:

http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id154/id154.pdf

Common Weed Identification guide:

http://www.louisvilleky.gov/nr/rdonlyres/3e824c1e-57e3-4eb3-b051-59e2e33f92e3/0/srag300pocketfieldguidetoweeds.pdf

You Might See A Mite

You Might See a Mite

April is that time of year when all of nature is holding its breath awaiting the warm breezes and gentle rains of spring.  We are all sick and tired of cold and dark days.  Well, we are not the only ones!  Many insects are becoming active and some of the earliest ones are actually arachnids or in the spider family.  Yep, I said spider.  Not big eight legged freaks but small, almost microscopic mites. The big question is what are they and do they bite? 

Clover mites can startle you because they can appear in large numbers but they are harmless to humans.  They do not feed on us or breed indoors.  Clover mites, like their name feed on clover and grasses. They are very small, reddish-brown creatures that appear only as moving dark spots to the naked eye.   A red-brown stain is left behind if they are crushed; this is the mite's body pigments, not blood.  Once inside a home or building they will soon die.

Red velvet mites are larger (1-3mm). These mites are predatory and you may see them crawling on trees looking for a meal. Young red velvet mites eat insects, adults eat other arthropods.  They look soft and velvety, not slick and shiny like ticks. 

Spider mites are common pests in our houses and landscapes.  They can inflict serious damage to trees, shrubs and flowers, indoors and out. Both evergreen and deciduous plants may be attacked. They are named for their ability to produce silk, which they spin on host plants. These mites are tiny, about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. They can also be very prolific, which is why by the time you see the webbing most plants will have been damaged.

Chiggers can show up any time now. Chiggers are the larvae of a family of mites that are sometimes called red bugs. The larvae are what cause us such misery. Chiggers are extremely small (0.5 mm) and are difficult to see without magnification. The six-legged larvae are hairy and yellow-orange or light red. They hang out in low, damp places where grass and weeds are overgrown. The adults do not feed on blood and are large, red mites often seen running over pavement and lawns.

Tick larvae are also active in early spring and may fool you, if you see them, as they have 6 legs instead of 8. They may be immature but they are still after a blood meal!  They climb up from the ground and will literally wait on vegetation for a host to walk by.  If the population is high one could find themselves covered in the tiny blood suckers.  Don’t forget to wear protective light color clothing (the better to see them with my dear).  Get the upper hand by preventing the first bite, wear long pants tucked into socks. Repellants for your skin like Deet (20% and higher) along with clothing and gear sprays(repellant) can provide good protection.  Don’t forget to check for ticks regularly when you and your family are outdoors including your hair.

Enjoy the wonderful spring weather and get started growing your plants and veggies. Remember that Mother Nature has jump started other creatures and we could be on their menu!

 If you would like more information on ticks and mites in Kentucky, the Critter Files are for you!

http://www.uky.edu/Ag/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/mites/mites.htm#mites